Park Street’s finest Greek restaurant. But can its chips pass moussaka?

LET’S GET DOWN TO CHEESINESS

I’ve been to All in One many times before. First on a poorly-planned Valentine’s Day date, and many times since because my friends are drawn like alcoholic moths to their “2 for £20” cocktail pitchers (no glasses needed). I finally revisited the place plotting this review from the get-go – are they more Anatolia, or Ana-no-lia? (ignore the Greece/Turkey conflation).

The waiter eventually comes by with a huge plate (worth it for £4.30, this is a serious meal rather than a side). The chips are thick and solid, perfectly capable of holding any amount of cheese thrown at them, but still have a light and airy interior – delicate, but substantial enough to enjoy by themselves.

The cheese is a little top-heavy – not how I remember it at all – but it’s melted to perfection, likely due to having been popped in the microwave before being served. This extra attention to detail is fabulous – rather than awkwardly waiting for the heat of the chips to melt the cheese, you instead have to wait for the plate to cool down enough to eat from.

There’s just about enough cheese to match the Golden Rule (each chip having at least 50% of its surface area covered in cheese), but not much beyond that. As shown above, a lot of the periphery chips are left high and dry and still need some scooping action to receive their proper attention. But this hearty meal is washed down perfectly with some cider, proving that you don’t need the fanciest approach so long as you just make an effort with the basics.

ROUNDUP

PRICE: £3.90 for a small plate, £4.30 for large
CHIPS: Big + scrumptious
CHEESE: Perfect consistency, with just a small loss on the spread
INNOVATION: No need for anything fancypants, just a proper plate of cheesy chips
PRETENTIOUSNESS: None whatsoever.
OVERALL: A grand meal, coming close to the Platonic Ideal of cheesy chips.